Ray Rogers Handcrafted Knives
How to Build Your Own Gate Valve
With this project I may be solving a problem that no one has. On the other hand, a 2" brass gate valve can be pretty spendy so, if you are on a really strict budget, you might find this project very useful. The good news is, it's really cheap to build and it's very easy. The bad news is....well, there really isn't any because if you do even a moderately good job this thing will work just as well as the more expensive store bought version.
The picture above shows all the pieces of the 2" gate valve project. I made this one from a sheet of melamine because it had a smooth surface and I had some laying around. Any smooth wood, thick plastic, or most any thick metal sheet could have been used. A piece of 2" PVC pipe from the junk pile, some screws and bolts, and a piece of all-thread takes care of most everything else. There are many possible variations to this design and most would work just fine. This design functions exactly the same as most of the store bought valves.
Here is the main valve body, there will be two of these. Cut this about 4" x 7". Mine is a little shorter which is why I had to add a small piece to the front - at 4 x 7" you shouldn't need to bother with that piece. Make the big hole about 2", mine is a little bigger because that's the only size hole saw I had. No problem there that a little duct tape won't cure!
This is the gate, it needs to be slightly wider than the 2" hole so that it will completely cover the hole. Then, drill a hole through the center of the block. The hole should be large enough to allow your all-thread to pass through without binding (a clearance hole). Bolt a piece of metal across the front of the block and thread a hole in it to accept your all-thread. Turning the all-thread will cause the gate to move up and down the all-thread so you can control how much air passes through the 2" hole.
This is the all-thread mounted to the piece of metal that will attach it to the valve body. The two nuts that you see have been JB Welded to the all-thread but spaced far enough apart that they don't bind on the metal mount. The all-thread passes through a cleanace hole in the metal mount. It doesn't matter what size all-thread you use, just pick something that you can tap a hole for. A long 4" bolt would work as well as all-thread.
Here's a partial assembly so you can see how it goes together. The strips around the three sides are about 3/4" wide and you can see the gate itself sitting between them. The all-thread is laying in front about where it will be when the gatevalve is assembled. The gate needs to fit close inside the three strips but should not bind. Don't worry about perfection here. There are some gaps and air will leak but the blower I built has plenty of pressure to spare. And, if it bugs you, you can seal up the gaps with epoxy or silicon caulk.
The blue color you see on top of the three strips comes from some of the fiber liner material we use on knife handles. This is just a heavy paper type stuff that measures .030 thick. Some kind of spacer is need here, otherwise the gate will be pinched between the two halves of the valve body.
This is the assembled gatevalve. The knob has been added and I put a piece of 1/4" Micarta in it to act as a crank. The knob itself is (obviously) just one of the plugs that I made by drilling the 2" hole in the valve body - waste not, want not.
Here is a view of the front of the body showing how the all-thread was attached. On the right is the completed gatevalve with inlet and outlet pipes attached (thanks Duct Tape!). I tested it with the blower from the last project and it worked like a champ. Next, we'll add this project and the blower project to three pieces of pipe and we'll have a working forced air burner....
A forge is not a toy and messing around with large quantites of flammable gas can be very dangerous! It is YOUR responsibility to exercise due caution and care if you chose to build a forge. Be sure to comply with all local regulations and restrictions. This web page is not intended as a guide for you to use when building a forge. It is merely intended as a record of what I did and as a way of illustrating the basic fundamentals of how a forge works. I am not responsible for what you choose to do with this information.
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Ray Rogers Handcrafted Knives